Month: February 2016

Leek and Potato Soup

Recently, a colleague asked me if I could share a recipe for this most classic of winter soups. Soup just happened to be on my mind, having read several recent articles and recipes looking for some new inspiration, so I was happy to oblige.

Leeks and potatoes are quintessential winter vegetables which work well together in a variety of slow cooked or braised dishes where maximum flavor is coaxed out of them. This standard easy-to-prepare soup yields loads of flavor with using only a few ingredients, and improves after a day or two of rest in the refrigerator allowing time for the flavors to blend and develop.

In perusing my cookbook library, most of the books devoted to French cuisine contained a recipe for this dish in one form or another. Other books featured variations from the more traditional adaptations of cream-based preparations such as Vichyssoise to more rustic interpretations.

I prefer a more rustic soup, one in which more leeks are used than potatoes, the potatoes remain unpeeled, the base stock is made from the outer leaves trimmed from the leeks, and the finished soup is thickened by pureeing some of it using an immersion mixer without adding any cream.

So here is my take on this winter soup standard that will yield 8 generous portions and take a total of approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes to prepare.

Ingredients
6 large leeks

Herb bundle:
3 to 4 bay leaves
1 to 2 center celery stalks cut from the top with leaves
3 to 4 parsley stalks with leaves
3 to 4 sage sprigs, thick stems removed
3 to 4 thyme sprigs
3 generous tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons of butter
5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
4 medium potatoes, thinly sliced
12 to 15 cups of stock or water
Salt and pepper to taste

Mise en place

Mise en place

Method
Trim any large damaged outer leaves from the leeks along with cutting off the tops from the leaf end leaving only the white and light green leaves attached at the root end.

Note: Save one or two large leaves to be used with the herb bundle.

For my base broth I thoroughly washed and chopped all the trim and added it to a stockpot filled with 24 cups of water along with a generous handful of parsley stems and 3 to 4 Parmesan rinds. Boil the water, then reduce to a simmer and cook the broth while preparing and assembling the remainder of the ingredients. The broth is done when all the leek trim has softened and sunk to the bottom of the pot. Drain and set the broth aside for use in making the soup.

Cut the trimmed leeks in half lengthwise, keeping them attached at the root end. Run them under cool water, spreading the leaf layers to loosen and remove any sand or grit that may be hidden there.  Next, very thinly slice the leeks across the length and set aside.

Using the large reserved leaves, wrap and securely tie all the fresh herbs within, to be used as a sachet or bouquet garni to add fresh herbal flavor to the soup.

In a large stockpot heat the olive oil over medium to high heat and melt the butter. Once gently sizzling, add the cut leeks, season with salt and pepper, and stir frequently to coat. Sauté, stirring often until the leeks begin to soften and take on some color. The volume will shrink by more than half and the leeks will begin to caramelize. At this time add the minced garlic, stirring to combine into the sauté.

Nestle the herb sachet in the center of the pot and add 12 cups of the prepared stock or water. Bring the stockpot to a boil then reduce to a simmer.

Next add the sliced potatoes, mixing to combine and simmer the soup until the potatoes have softened and begin to break apart. At this point the soup is done and can be served; however a few more steps can be taken.

If you would like, cream could be added to the pot at this time and stirred in to combine, or it could be drizzled over the individual serving bowls. My preference, however, is not to use cream, or crème fraiche, or yogurt at all but instead take an immersion mixer and puree some of the soup directly in the stockpot to thicken and smooth the overall finished texture. If the pureed soup seems a little too thick, some additional base stock or water can be added. Check and correct the seasoning before serving.

The soup can be served on its own although it lends itself to any number of garnishes. Minced chives would be the classic garnish, although minced parsley, pan-roasted scallions, toasted croutons, or even a tangle of micro greens can all be floated in the bowl.

Served

Served

So there you have it: a hearty flavorful soup recipe, that combines simple ingredients that can be prepared quickly, making it a great lunch or a starter for a dinner meal. Give it a try before the winter season ends—it will become one of your go-to soup recipes.

Eat well. Be well.
DM
One of the best things about cooking is that it is an ongoing learning experience.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A Variation on Risotto

When considering what to prepare for dinner one Friday evening, I took my inspiration from Nigel Slater—food columnist for the Observer magazine and The Guardian and author of Notes from the Larder, a Kitchen Diary. The latter is his latest book and the first one of his that I’ve read.

The challenge was to prepare a straightforward, low cost, healthy meal, using only ingredients found in my larder. Here is what I found after rummaging around: Arborio rice, frozen lobster stock, smoked black cod, shallots, dry white vermouth, baby kale, and Szechuan peppercorns.

Working with a few other kitchen staples, I paired the risotto entrée with a fennel-apple-radish salad and a good bottle of wine and the result was a satisfying meal assembled in less than an hour.

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Food Notes

  • If you don’t have lobster stock, use 1 bottle of clam juice plus water to yield 2 cups
  • If smoked black cod is not available, haddock, trout, or salmon are good substitutes
  • If there are no shallots on hand, then a small sweet onion is a good substitute
  • If you don’t have white vermouth, use a dry white wine
  • If baby kale is not on hand, baby arugula, baby spinach, or even micro greens would work well
  • If you don’t have Szechuan peppercorns, then black peppercorns will suffice

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Ingredients for the risotto
1 pound smoked black cod or similar, skinned
2 cups Half & Half or light cream
2  to 3 bay leaves
1 teaspoon whole Szechuan peppercorns
2 cups lobster stock or the diluted clam juice, heated
2 medium shallots, fine dice
1 cup Arborio rice or other risotto rice options (for example, Carnaroli, Vialone, or Nano). One cup yields a generous portion for two.
1 cup white vermouth or wine
2 cups loosely packed baby greens as noted

Smoke black cod filets

Smoked black cod filets

Method

Gently warm the Half & Half or light cream in a saucepan with the bay leaves and the peppercorns. Break up the smoked fish into a few large pieces and steep in the warm liquid on very low heat.

Warm the stock over medium heat in another saucepan and be ready to ladle into the risotto.

In a large sauté pan with high sides melt 2 to 3 tablespoons of butter in a generous tablespoon of olive oil over medium to high heat. Add the minced shallot and stir to coat, sautéing until it softens but not doesn’t brown.

Add the rice and again stir to coat and combine with the sautéed shallot. Allow the rice to toast for a few minutes, stirring often.

Next add the cup of vermouth or wine, stirring to incorporate as it sizzles. Continue to stir until most all the liquid has cooked off.

Now begin to ladle the heated stock, continuously stirring until the initial ladleful cooks off and repeat the process until all the stock has been used up.

While the risotto is cooking, remove the fish from the cream to a platter and shred with a fork into large flaky pieces. Set aside.

Strain the cream to remove the bay leaves and peppercorns, then add 1 ladleful to the risotto, again continuing to stir to combine. Once the liquid has almost been absorbed, test the texture of the risotto to determine if it has softened but is still slightly firm (al dente). If not, add another ladle of the cream again stirring to combine.

At this time also add the shredded fish and the greens, gently folding into the cooked risotto. This entire cooking process should take approximately 20 minutes. Serve in warm bowls, season to taste but keep in mind the smoked fish adds salt to the finished dish.

Risotto plated

Risotto plated

A Note about the Salad
The apple was sliced into 1/8-inch rounds which were then sliced across into thin batons. The radishes were treated the same way, while the fennel was thinly shaved. The three ingredients were then gently tossed with whole parsley leaves and fresh squeezed lemon juice before being plated. A drizzle of good finishing olive oil, a sprinkle of salt, pepper, and chili flakes to taste, and you’re done.

Fennel-apple-radish salad

Fennel-apple-radish salad

So that was the outcome of my larder findings. As Mr. Slater remarked in his book, “Just simple, understated food, something to be shared rather than looked at in wonder and awe.”

Why not rummage through your larder next Friday and see what you can come up with for dinner?

Enjoy.
Eat well. Be well.
DM
“Taste, observe, and adjust as needed. Cooking is as much about following instinct as following recipes.” SPQR

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