Category: Surf

What’s That Floating in My Soup?

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With the late-winter surge Mother Nature just served us, it seems as though we are going to have to tough it out another week or so before we really get to warmer spring temperatures. A steaming bowl of hot soup has always been comforting against the cold of winter, and this seemed like just the right time to heat some up.

It is not always practical to cook just for two people so it is not unusual to find extra containers of soup or stock in my freezer. Rummaging around this time, I found extra containers of roasted garlic soup. This soup has the consistency of velvety bisque and was inspired by a recipe I read about years ago and later found in my copy of chef Susan Spicer’s book Crescent City Cooking. Over the years I have prepared this soup many times, adjusting here and there, ending up with the recipe I posted on the blog back in December 2014 in a piece entitled Garlic Is Good for Everything, where I offered a few suggestions on ways to garnish the soup, creating different presentations and flavors. But this time I was looking to do something different and make a heartier meal around the soup. Additionally, I didn’t care to go out to the market again in the cold, so the challenge was to make the meal using what I had on hand.

Inspired by a short piece I read entitled “Gambas a la Plancha” (Shrimp on the Griddle) from a back issue of Saveur magazine, and another about Barbecue Shrimp found in the latest issue of The Local Palate magazine, I knew the bag of Alaskan spot prawns in my freezer were going to be put to good use.

Along with a powdered version of harissa, the spicy condiment enjoyed throughout northern Africa, I decided to garnish the soup with spice-rubbed, shell-on shrimp seared in a hot grill pan. To round out the shrimp preparation, I coated the shrimp with garlic jam before liberally dusting them with the harissa. To finish the dish, I referred to a very old recipe from my archives that I call a hybrid aioli prepared with olive oil-braised fennel, placing a dollop on the shrimp as they are floated in the soup.

To summarize what you would be working with here, the soup recipe as noted can be found in the blog archives, then the harissa, garlic jam, the shrimp, and the fennel aioli are featured in this post.

Harissa is a chili-based condiment used widely in Tunisian, Algerian, and Moroccan cooking to name a few. It can be used as a cooking spice but more generally it’s a finishing condiment at the table, adding a little heat to punctuate dishes such as soups, couscous, and stews. Commercially prepared harissa can be found in specialty food shops that feature oils, olives, preserved lemons, spices, and dried herbs, although it is just as easy to make your own. There are many different recipes to reference in cookbooks and online as there seems to be no one “master” recipe. The mix generally includes one or more types of toasted dried chilies, coriander, cumin, caraway, and salt, ground into a powder. Garlic and olive oil can be incorporated into the mix that results in a paste form of the condiment.

The garlic jam is just what it sounds like—a roasted spread—that I have on hand all the time. It is quite easy to make, and has many uses such as a coating for most anything to be seared, roasted, or grilled; as an ingredient to punctuate a salad dressing; as a sauce for grilled or roasted vegetables; or simply the base for toasted garlic bread.

Using one full head of garlic and a full head of elephant garlic, slice approximately ¼ inch off the top of the head of regular garlic and leave both garlics unpeeled. Place in an ovenproof baking dish, coat with olive oil, cover with foil, and roast in a preheated 325-degree oven for an hour or until very soft when pierced with the point of a knife.

When the garlic is cool enough to handle, peel and cut the root end off the elephant garlic, squeeze the soft garlic from the smaller cut cloves, adding all along with the roasting oil into the work bowl of a food processor. Along with the roasted garlic add a ¼ section of finely minced preserved lemon, finely minced parsley leaves with tender stems, and a pinch each of salt, pepper, and red chili flakes to taste. Process, slowly adding olive oil through the feed tube, as necessary, until a smooth emulsion is formed. The jam can be stored in the refrigerator, in jars, topped by olive oil for many weeks as long as after each use the remainder is again topped off with olive oil. Or it can be frozen indefinitely.

 

Olive Oil-Braised Fennel Aioli

Ingredients
1 large fennel bulb and stalks, set fronds aside
3 large garlic cloves
1 cup olive oil
Juice from ½ lemon
1 tablespoon dry white wine or white vermouth
1 teaspoon toasted and finely ground fennel seeds
2 egg yolks

Method
Chop the fennel and garlic cloves. Sauté over medium heat in the olive oil until lightly caramelized and very soft.

When cool, place the fennel and all the sauté oil in the work bowl of a food processor along with the lemon juice, wine or vermouth, fennel seeds, egg yolks; salt and pepper to taste.

Process slowly until mixed, then raise the speed and process until a smooth emulsion is formed. Scrape down the sides as necessary to make sure all the fennel gets pureed and then check the seasoning, correcting as needed. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Fennel aioli

 

Shrimp/Prawns

In this recipe Alaskan spot prawns are used. These large crustaceans are taken from southeastern Alaskan waters, sustainably harvested, flash frozen and shipped.

A pound generally contains an average of 10 prawns or less and, if sourced with the heads intact and a roe sac attached to the females, makes for a more dramatic presentation and flavor. If these Alaskan prawns cannot be found, then colossal shrimp (U8) will work just as well.

Ingredients
8 to 10 Alaskan spot prawns or colossal shrimp
Garlic jam
Harissa powder mix

Method

Once the prawns are thawed in the refrigerator overnight, cut the shell down the length of the back but do not remove the shell.

Run the prawns under cool water, using your thumb to remove any particles or veins under the cut shells. Use paper towels to dry the prawns and place them on a large platter. Coat the prawns with garlic jam and olive oil on both sides. Sprinkle the coated prawns with the harissa powder mix on both sides. Place the platter in the refrigerator until ready to cook.

Seasoned prawns

To replicate the a la plancha cooking approach, heat a cast iron pan or a grill pan over high heat, adding 4 tablespoons of olive oil. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the prawns, shells and all (the shells keep the meat moist, and since they are slit it will be easier to remove them when eating). Shake the pan continuously cooking the prawns until the shells begin to char in places, about 3 to 4 minutes before turning the prawns over and searing for another 2 minutes on the second side.

Seared a la plancha

To serve, place 2 or 3 prawns in a large soup dish, ladle the garlic soup around, and top the prawns with a tablespoon of the fennel aioli and a few fennel fronds.

Served

Any extra prawns can be used in a frittata paired with spinach or shredded into a risotto. They certainly won’t go to waste!

Along with the bowl of hot garlic soup, the harissa coating the prawns will raise the temperature of the room a degree or two more helping you ward off this last of the winter cold.

Enjoy.
Eat well. Be well.
DM
We can simply treat food as nothing more than fuel or instead enjoy and appreciate its every quality.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cooking in a Pouch

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The Italians call it al cartoccio, and the French call it en papillote, but whatever you call it, this method is a classic quick and gentle cooking technique for roasting or steaming vegetables, some seafood, or some poultry in a parcel or pouch.

The pouches are typically made using kitchen parchment paper, foil, both. However, you could use a brown kraft paper bag, or as in other cuisines, banana leaves, grape leaves, or corn husks for example.

The main ingredient assembled and wrapped in the pouch will take on the character of the seasonings, fresh herbs, marinades, or the vegetables that are paired with it for the cooking. The combinations are virtually endless and offer the home cook many possibilities to be creative with mixing and matching flavor combinations. The end result is a perfectly cooked dish, which requires very little work, cooks quickly but gently, and always produces a flavorful sauce that can be spooned over the finished dish when plated.

For a little drama, the actual pouches can be opened tableside making a different plating presentation, along with filling the room with the fragrance of the dish as the steam escapes when the pouch is cut.

My favorite ingredients to use in this cooking manner are various seafood and  vegetables. In the example I am sharing with you in this post I actually combined seafood and vegetables to illustrate the technique.

I am lucky enough to have a neighbor who goes ocean fishing every chance he gets and fortunately I have been the beneficiary of some of his catch so that’s what I used this time. Combined with the beautiful fillet were the first of the season’s cherry tomatoes from a local farm and well as a batch of spring onions from another.

As you might imagine the tomatoes were not quite ready with the kind of flavor realized from vine-ripened tomatoes later in the summer season. To help them along, I slow roasted them for about 3 hours with the spring onions, sprig cuttings from my herb garden, and a little olive oil, which resulted in more flavorful tomatoes and a sauce that was then used with the fish fillet in the pouch.

Consider the following recipe a guide for preparing food cooked in a pouch.

Ingredients
1 to 1¼ pound, 1-inch thick fish fillet (skin on or removed), cut in half
1 bunch vine-ripened cherry tomatoes, halved
1 bunch spring onions, halved lengthwise
Fresh herb sprigs (in this recipe I used, thyme, lemon balm, mint)
Olive oil
Salt and pepper

Kitchen parchment paper cut into pieces approximately 15 x 24, then folded in half to 12 x 15 (Note: In some recipes you might be instructed to cut the parchment into the shape of a heart, but that is not necessary to the success of this cooking method)

Method
Cut the parchment paper and set aside.

In a roasting pan or ovenproof dish add the onions and the tomatoes, sprinkle lightly with olive oil, salt and pepper, and top with the fresh herb sprigs, pushing them down into the tomatoes. Cover the dish and roast in a 250-degree oven for 3 hours.

When the tomatoes are ready and cool enough to handle, remove the herb sprigs, and place the spring onions and some of the tomato just off center within the folded parchment paper. Place a fillet on top of those vegetables and spoon some additional tomatoes and the roasting sauce over the top. Salt and pepper to taste.

Fillet placed on parchment

Fillet placed on parchment

Now comes the tricky part! First, using a brush or a spoon, run a little sauce around the outer edges of the parchment paper so that when folded it adheres to itself. Starting at one corner make a short diagonal fold in and tightly crease it. Repeat the process moving all around the open sides of the parchment paper, making tight short folds with sharp creases until the pouch is sealed. The pouch should be completely sealed so that the steam cannot escape.

Sealed, ready for oven

Preheat the oven to 400 to 450 degrees and place the pouches on a sheet pan large enough to hold them without overlapping. Depending upon the thickness of the fillet, bake for up to 40 minutes, then remove from the oven allowing the pouches to rest for a few minutes.

The dish can either be served in the pouches, simply cutting open the top the reveal the ingredients and sauce inside, or using a spatula lift the fillet and vegetables onto the plate and pour the sauce over.

Open pouch, ready to serve

Plated

Plated

This is a dish that can be made all season long, taking advantage of all the fresh produce and herbs available and pairing them with your favorite seafood or other ingredients that benefit from cooking in this manner. Actually, it is a cooking technique that can be adapted to seasonal ingredients all year long. Once you try it a few times you will appreciate the creativity and probably become adept at paper folding as well!

Eat well. Be well.
DM
A simple preparation of extremely fresh ingredients is the secret of truly elegant eating.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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